How to Experience Lisbon’s “Illegal Chinese Food” Subculture

Photography by: Carly Krei

When I first heard about the illegal Chinese food scene upon arriving in Lisbon, I had questions. Most importantly, I wanted to go- like now. 

I’ll start off by saying that the food did not disappoint, and the ambience was exactly like I pictured upon hearing the words illegal Chinese food restaurant, known locally as “Chines clandestinos.”

So what exactly is illegal Chinese food?

Chinese immigrants began officially running “restaurants” out of their own homes, which at the time of their conception was only known about by other Chinese immigrants.

The neighborhood that many of the Chinese found themselves in was Martim Monez, an area that feels dramatically different than the neighboring Chiado district.

When Chinese immigration began to boom in Lisbon in the late 90’s, they started to become quite popular especially as interest in international cuisine grew in Lisbon. However, they weren’t exactly the most sanitary or legally operated establishments. After reports of food poisoning and rumors of unsanitary conditions, the government started to take notice. 

It wasn’t until 2006 though that the ASAE organized a sting to shut down these restaurants, citing unsanitary conditions and allegedly closing down 40% of these establishments. 

How Is It Still Operating Now?

Despite initial damage to their reputation, it has not stopped many of these restaurants from operating or from locals and educated tourists from seeking them out.

Many of the previous establishments are now legit. Some have moved out of these neighborhoods to more popular areas, opening very well known Chinese restaurants. Many still operate just the same, technically illegitimate, but delicious all the same.

How Do You Visit These Restaurants Today?

When I went to the enjoy this delicious Chinese food, all I had was an address, thanks to my friend who had been taken by a local before. I still don’t know the name of the place, nor do I think there is one. You can usually only find these restaurants by address.

As we walked further away from the heart of the city, Lisbon changes drastically. The buildings become more run down, the variety in languages and ethnicities increased, the alleyways more narrow and the smells more pungent. 

We made one last turn and found ourselves in front of a very unassuming apartment building, with two clues that we were in the right place: Chinese lanterns up above and a poorly scrawled “Chines” on the wall with an arrow to buzzer . Naturally, we pressed the buzzer and ascended up three flights of stairs. 

What to Expect:

The door to the apartment was wide open, with not a single person inside. To be fair, it was six pm, and no one eats at six pm in Lisbon. The man spoke no English, but thankfully we were with our Chinese friend who aided in the translation. 

The menus were well worn, with a dead fly inside one of the plastic sleeves. However, it was almost 10 pages long with no dish exceeding 8 euros, and most priced at far less.  

The man sat at a table behind us, smoking cigarettes and doing work on his lap top. Once we gave him our order, he disappeared into what one assumes is his actual kitchen. You could see the shower and bathroom right behind it. We waited, our mouths watering. 

Every dish was excellent, authentic and portions were huge- which didn’t stop us from eating everything on the table. From the home made spring rolls, to the squid and black beans, everything was delicious.

The experience would have been worth it even if one of us had ended up with food poisoning. 

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