Why You Need to Visit Buenos Aires: Your Ultimate Guide

This thriving metropolitan in South America attracts visitors near and far, with an increase of digital nomads and expats. If you’re planning to visit Buenos Aires, this guide will tell you what to do, where to eat, how to visit and everything in between.

Buenos Aires is one of those places that evokes one of two reactions: “I’m dying to go there,” or “Is it safe to go there?” I can assure you that the answer to the latter is yes, and that the former is correct. You need to visit Buenos Aires and let me tell you why, and be your ultimate guide.

So Is it Really Dangerous? 

To put you at ease, let me clarify the dangerous image that Buenos Aires has been given. Buenos Aires, like many countries, has had a tumultuous political history. Corrupt leadership and wars have done damage to its citizens and its reputation. That being said, I think we can all relate. 

Currently, the major issue that plagues Buenos Aires is the economic strife its people have had to endure because of this bad leadership. Constant economic crashes have made life difficult and unpredictable. A currency that is always changing and fluctuating gives people little stability. 

This can increase the chances of petty crime, and ultimately protests and rebellion against their leadership. But let me assure you, my time there I had zero issues. I lived there during the latest economic crash, and the uprisings in Latin American motivated by the Santiago protests in 2019.

My only major annoyance was the fact that ATM’s had such low limits ($40 USD at a time) with exorbitant fees ($10 USD). Also almost nowhere wanted to take credit, despite having the a working credit card machine. It’s a small price to pay for an amazing five weeks in a beautiful and unique city.   

Another thing to note, is that it’s a major metropolitan. So you need to be aware of your surroundings and street smart as you navigate city life. While Buenos Aires in particular has a reputation for pick pocketing- violent crime and assault is not exactly what you should expect. 

Keep your phone where you can feel it, and hidden- don’t just loosely hold it so someone could easily snatch it. Avoid walking at night long distances alone, and you should be fine if you visit Buenos Aires.

Now that we have gotten that out of the way, we can move to the fun stuff. Below is your ultimate guide if you are going to visit Buenos Aires.

When to Go

I visited Buenos Aires during winter (June) and during summer (November). I had a fantastic time on both occasions. If you choose to go during the winter, just know that it gets quite cold and quite rainy. We did lose a few days while there due to the rain and you have to layer up, but it’s certainly not unbearable.

When we returned, we chose to visit Buenos Aires in November. It’s the most popular month to visit for several reasons. They have the Jacaranda trees blooming during this month only, as well as The Jazz Fest and The Gaucho fest. So there’s a lot happening, but there isn’t an overwhelming amount of tourists.

Summer is just beginning in November, so it’s quite warm, about 80-85 f. every day. It’s not too humid though, so I think it’s the perfect month to visit. Sunny, comfortable, and all the nature and trees are alive with the city. 

How to Prepare

If you have a card that doesn’t charge international ATM fees, like the Charles Schwab debit card, I would highly recommend bringing this. This is such a cash heavy society, and the ATM’s are frustrating. You’ll be losing a lot on ATM fees if you don’t have a no fee card. 

If you’re going to visit Buenos Aires, I would note that flying directly into Buenos Aires can be a bit costly. If you have extra time and a stricter budget, I would recommend price checking flights into Santiago, Chile as well. 

Flying between Santiago and Buenos Aires is usually around $50 and a little over an hour. If you choose to fly into SCL vs. EZE, you can often save hundreds of dollars, and get a much shorter flight.

When we flew from Mexico, a flight to Buenos Aires was about $400 more than a flight to Santiago, so we saved a lot of money and time. Not to mention, if you fly to Santiago first, you can experience another amazing metropolitan. I have a full guide to Santiago that you can view here. 

Where to Live

Buenos Aires is quite large, and there are some less than desirable areas for tourists. You need to keep that in mind when you visit Buenos Aires. I would recommend Palermo (which consists of two neighborhoods: Soho and Hollywood) or Recoleta. You’d be hard pressed to hear of a better location to stay as a tourist. 

Another option is Puerto Madero, a ritzy, newly built port, or even directly in the heart of the city in Monserrat, with the bustle and the monuments. Puerto Madero is further from most of the things you’ll want to do, and the city center is very crowded and chaotic, so they have their pros and cons.

However, nothing is more lively, walkable and tourist friendly than Palermo and Recoleta. Below you’ll find a breakdown of these neighborhoods and the pros and cons. 

Palermo Hollywood:

At first I was more into SoHo than Hollywood, but after five weeks in SoHo, I think I prefer Hollywood. It has more of an edge to it, trendier restaurants, right in the middle of the night life and it’s a bit removed from the main tourist crowds. Some of the best restaurants and all of the clubs are in this area, but it’s still very livable.

Palermo SoHo:

We lived here during our longer stay and it’s a pretty unbeatable location. So much to see and do. The heart of SoHo is near Plaza Armenia, so if you stay around that area, that’s as ideal as it gets. It can be a bit crowded though, as it’s the tourist hot spot. SoHo has lots of parks, boutiques and cafes, and weekend markets.

Recoleta:

While Palermo steals most of the attention, Recoleta is under rated in my opinion. Right by El Ateneo Grand Splendid (best bookstore in the world), the massive cemetary and Recoleta centro, and the Museo Nacional de Belles Artes. This neighborhood has a mix of everything.

While Palermo has the boho, artistic, hipster vibe, palermo is a bit more glitzy and European. The buildings are bigger and nicer, the hustle and bustle of the centro spilling over and things are newer. Since it’s right in between downtown and Palermo, it makes sight seeing easy.

Cost of Living

Buenos Aires is very affordable if you’re coming from the United States. The average cost for lunch (including a beverage) is roughly $5 USD. For a sit down dinner you’re looking at more $10-$20 USD depending on how much wine you order with your meal and if you get some appetizers. Wine and drinks are very affordable as well, and happy hour is common. 

Ubers are pretty standard for Latin America- a ride around and across the city could be anything between $3-$15 USD. It’s also super walkable depending on where you stay. The benefit of being in such a dense metropolitan is how easy it is to get around. 

Rent is very reasonable. We had a 3 bedroom apartment, full price on Airbnb, in Palermo Soho for about $600 USD each. This is definitely the higher end that you are going to pay, in the most expensive area of BA. You can absolutely get a 1 bedroom on Airbnb for closer to $500-700 USD in the same area. Of course, that’s Airbnb, which is much more expensive than the local rent.

It’s always in your best interest if you’re staying long term to compare the price of local apartments over the price of Airbnb. The average rent in Buenos Aires is less than $300 USD, so you can definitely find a more affordable option outside of Airbnb for longer term stays. 

Grocery stores are very reasonable and there are plenty of health food stores. My weekly groceries ran between $20-$40 USD depending on what I bought.

You can easily join a decent gym for $20 USD a month (if you’re into group fitness, beware. They work out super late here i.e. 9 pm kickboxing). 

What to Do During the Day

The better question is, what not to do? My favorite thing about Buenos Aires is the culture and the variety of activities. This is a very lively city and the energy is palpable.

During the day, you have numerous museums, parks and cafes to visit. You can also spend half a day taking a boat ride on the Rio De La Plata. You could bike through the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur or attend a futbol game (with caution).

My top three suggestions three suggestions are as follows:

1. You need to take this fabulous bike tour throughout the city. You’ll ride through the famous La Boca neighborhood as well as most of the city. You also learn so much history and our guide was fantastic.

2. You have to do a polo experience. You play, watch and get to attend an asado. It’s a traditional Argentinian “barbeque” but it’s so much more than that.

3. Side Trip: If Buenos Aires is your base for a longer amount of time, you are smack dab in the middle of so many places to visit. You can go to Uruguay by ferry for a night, or take a short flight to Iguazu Falls for some hikes and nature, or to Mendoza for a winery escape. The side trip options are pretty expansive if you just want to get out of town for a weekend.

What to Do At Night

First of all, nightlife is everything. Argentina stays up late, always. Experiencing a night on the town is the best thing about Buenos Aires, in my opinion. If you visit Buenos Aires, be prepared for dancing, drinks and late dinners (I’m talking 10 pm to midnight).

There are particularly a lot of really cool speakeasies, and unique music venues. Live music is a huge part of the culture, so there is always some sort of a show to go to. 

Below are some of my favorite bars and experiences:

Tango:

I know it’s a touristy thing to do, but it is for a reason. Tango has a fascinating history and its incredible to watch a live performance. I would highly recommend this dinner and tango show. It also includes a free tango lesson before, and the venue is stunning.

Gorriti Art Center:

They do a very interesting and erotic show, titled “SEX,” that is well known by locals. We checked it out- it’s not for the faint of heart. Trust me when I say it’s an experience and a very interesting and impressive show. Do not go with your family or with someone you don’t know well- if the title didn’t make that clear. 

Thelonious Club:

Talk about an experience! This local hot spot is home to some of the most amazing live music shows and it is a true treat. With a bar area on one side, a basic food menu and an intimate live show, you can start there. The other side is a full on club, also with live performers. So you can start slow and work up to your dancing shoes. 

Victoria Brown Bar:

One of my favorite speakeasies in town, you should not miss this place. With a food stand out front, and a full brick wall at the entrance, you wouldn’t know that there was anything more. Except for the smartly dressed person standing precariously in front of the wall. You simply tell them you want to visit the bar, and go inside. It’s an industrial themed speakeasy filled with exposed brick, factory- era machines and an extensive and beautiful cocktail menu. 

Uptown:

Probably the best place to end the night when you visit BA. This extremely popular club is such an experience. What makes it special is that it’s an underground, makeshift subway station. You go underground, to your platform, and “take” the subway. It opens to a packed room filled with people, music and a floor to ceiling bar. It’s awesome.

J.W. Bradley:

For my final speakeasy rec, this place is not to be missed if you visit Buenos Aires. You enter through a fake train car that takes you to the “train station.” The bar is the ticket station and the dark, moody and trendy vibe is perfect.

Where to Eat

If you love meat, this is the city (and country) for you. Steak, steak, and more steak- plus everything else. Empanadas and chorizo are the typical street food, and lots of potatoes. With heavy European influence, the food reflects a euro-latin fusion.

The dining scene is absolutely beautiful, with tons of trendy cafes, roof tops and beautiful restaurants. If you are vegetarian, fear not- there are loads of veggie and vegan places to try and they are quite impressive. There were also so many different health food stores around me that I could find just about anything I needed and then some. 

A bonus, as a gluten free individual, was how incredible their gluten free scene was. They have several gluten free bakeries and everything from pizza, to rolls, to pasta to empanadas ready to go.

It was honestly hard to eat healthy that month when I could actually indulge in everything. You absolutely have to check out the local mercado to try all the classic dishes, and of course, attend an Asado. 

Below are some of my favorite restaurants:

Buenos Aires Verde:

Oh my goodness do I love this place. Cute, airy, bright and green- this quaint little vegetarian cafe in Palermo Hollywood is a must. It’s always packed, with an unbeatable lunch special. For those healthy and not so healthy, both will enjoy. They have a huge range of juices and smoothies, and they even turn them into healthy cocktails with soju. Their menu is constantly changing and very vast. You can also buy some healthy desserts and snacks to go at the counter. 

Sacro:

Also vegetarian, because I am, but this place is absolutely gorgeous. It’s the perfect location for a romantic or celebratory dinner and you won’t be disappointed by the creative fare, and delicious cocktails. 

Darsena Bar:

I love this place. Buenos Aires has tons of cool and hip breweries but this one is my favorite. It has an amazing, very trendy and vibrant roof top. They have a full food menu and it’s pretty tasty, not to mention their cocktails are amazing. This is a good place to go for a lazy lunch or mid day snack break. Just make sure you check their hours- they have very inconsistent opening and closing hours. 

Don Julio:

This is *the* famous steak house. So if you want to do steak, most will say go here. It’s fancy, beautiful, and you may even get the room in the wine celler. But make sure you make a reservation, especially during Argentinian summer. 

La Cabrera:

This is the alternative to Don Julio, and probably what the locals will more readily point you toward. It’s a beautiful restaurant. It’s so popular they have two different buildings across the street from each other to accommodate their guest list. You can come during happy hour with no reservation (before 7 pm). That’s the only way you’ll get in if you don’t make a reservation well in advance. 

Central Mercado:

As in most cities, this is the place to go for all your street food and traditional Argentinian goods. This is where you’ll eat the most local, interesting and affordable food in BA. 

Gout Gluten Free:

If you’re not gluten free, you don’t care as much, but those that are…this is the best gluten free bakery in my life. I made my friends come multiple times with me and they all agreed- it’s delicious. They are so popular they have two locations. 

Milion:

This grand mansion in Recoleta is a bit more about the experience and ambiance than the food- though the food is fantastic. The prices are super reasonable, especially for the setting and service. Mainly Italian and Argentinian fusion, as is most of BA cuisine. You can get a delicious and affordable steak or an incredible gnocchi and risotto. 

Where to Work

Buenos Aires is a digital nomad and cafe lover’s dream. You have an endless amount of choices and all are hip, unique and pleasing to the eye. I went to multiple in a work day because I couldn’t narrow it down. There were several co-working spaces as well, but in my opinion, they were a little overpriced and not super appealing. 

Below are a few of my favorites places to work from in the city:  

Sintaxis:

This lovely bakery and cafe is a great working spot. I’ve spent literally all day there and it’s a comfortable space to work. With a spacious indoor area and a nice outdoor patio, you have lots of space, good tables and wifi. Not to mention, it’s a dedicated gluten free bakery. It’s pretty popular, but there’s always space. Outside of the brunch rush, the place stays quite peaceful for a work day. 

Lobo Cafe:

One of my favorite work spaces, though it definitely gets crowded. This super cozy cafe is filled with comfy booths, exposed brick and super sweet staff. They have an extensive coffee and tea list, and some great lunch and brunch specials. I’ve spent many full days here working and they never get upset, even when it gets quite busy at lunch. The wifi is super reliable which is really hard to find in BA honestly, and I never had issues. 

Libros Del Pasaje:

Ok, the wifi isn’t amazing if it’s a stormy day. But it’s pretty reliable and the environment is just so cute. A full on cafe in the back of a bookstore, it’s got everything you could want. A lot of people post up here to work, and they have a full food menu, not just baked goods and coffee. 

Dain Usina Cultural Center:

Don’t let the google maps pictures confuse you- this spot is amazing. It also has a bookstore at the front. There is a huge downstairs area to work, with big tables and benches and usually very little people. They have a sizable upstairs patio with big couches to lounge on. The only downside of this place is that they don’t have food outside of baked goods, or I’d stay all day. 

Ol’Days Cafe Recoleta:

It may also be a veggie cafe, but it’s a fabulous work space. It’s usually not that crowded and it’s massive. With high top seats, benches or traditional tables, you have a lot to work with in a very cute ambiance. They won’t kick you out if you stay all day. 

Usina Cafeteria:

Last but not least, I love this cafe. It has a delicious set menu and everything is baked and prepared in house. They have multiple rooms so you have a lot of privacy and can either tuck yourself up in a corner, or sit in the open air  courtyard. 

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